This is the third in a series of blog posts documenting our 2023 summer holiday: a wonderful road-trip around Denmark, Sweden and Norway.
Day 3: July 26, 2023
The third day of our holiday was one we were all very excited for – the first theme park of the trip as we planned to spend the day at the iconic Tivoli Gardens.
After making sure we stocked up with a hearty breakfast at Cabinn we walked into the centre of Copenhagen.
Our visit coincided with the culmination of the 110th Tour de France, which had been won by Denmark’s Jonas Vingegaard. This meant that the centre of Copenhagen was buzzing with cycling fans. We were in the queue for Tivoli before the majority of people had arrived but it was still getting busy enough. And as we made our way into the park we found that a special stage had been set up inside in his honour.
There is a dizzying array of ticketing options for Tivoli Gardens. At its most basic you can buy a ticket to enter the gardens and have pay per use access to the rides and amenities. And then there were various ticket passes and packages that included food and drink and photos.
We had initially expected that the Copenhagen Card would be perfect for our needs, especially with its inclusion of public transport. However, when we looked at the individual costs of the things we planned to do we found the calculator on the Copenhagen Card website had been wrong. I never really got to the bottom of the difference between their sums (which were definitely wrong) and mine (which weren’t). But the Tivoli Gardens coverage from the Copenhagen Card is only for access to the park and not to the rides so it was definitely not what we needed. It was easy to cancel the cards so top marks for that aspect of the customer service.
This left us trying to work out what was going to be the right thing to do for our needs. We were lucky to discover promotional offers on Tiqets that eventually meant we plumped for the full package which gave us entry, unlimited rides, a set menu meal at various of the dining options in the park plus access to the horror house, the aquarium and unlimited ride photos on our phones. In a refreshing change there was no way to pay to skip the queue – a trend of late stage capitalism that I really dislike – everyone turns up and waits their turn.
It wasn’t cheap as the total cost for the four of us, even with the discount, was £200 but once we’d factored in what it covered it worked out as the right deal for us, especially in how we managed the food, meaning we got through the day with only minimal additional spend.
We started off with the classic Tivoli Gardens ride – The Roller Coaster. It’s one of the oldest running wooden roller coasters in the world having been built in 1914! It is an oddity with only a handful of roller coasters in the world that are like it. The reason is that the driver, the brake man, rides on board.
From there we went to The Fun House, passing by magic mirrors and down narrow alleyways. The kids absolutely loved the weird staircases, treadmills, rope bridges and slides but soon their appetite was for something bigger.
And so we made our way to bigger and bolder rides with Ezra and I going very, very high in the sky on the Star Flyer, then the quease inducing Astronomer before Ezra found his absolute favourite ride of the day, Aquila (which he rode multiple times in the end). We stopped for lunch and then pressed ahead with other parts of the park. I spent a lovely time with Eleanor going round a ride dedicated to Hans Christian Andersen (twice).
We also indulged in some excellent ice creams – though I’ve never been able to find any trace of what exactly goes into a Fyrtårn ice cream, other than it kind of resembling a lighthouse.
Then it was time for tea and we took advantage of our special package to eat from the options as the food court. The food court is open to the public but has a route into the park for those who are enjoying the Gardens. While I went to source our evening meals the family settled down at the open air theatre to enjoy a wonderful farcical live action pantomime. Ezra especially loved it.
After that Eleanor was getting tired so we had another few rides before Christine took her back to the hotel and left Ezra and I to enjoy the evening. This included the dodgems, a return to Aquila and several rides on the swinging chairs (a favourite of both Ezra and Christine) as well as a wander round the extensive aquarium – pity the poor occupants of the urinal tank!
Dusk at Tivoli Gardens is a wonderful experience with the park looking very good as night advances and the lights switch on. In the end we stayed until closing and really got our money’s worth with the park not closing until 2200! A far cry from how early UK theme parks shut!