Exploring the Heart of Copenhagen

Denmark, Summer 2023, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

This is the second in a series of blog posts documenting our 2023 summer holiday: a wonderful road-trip around Denmark, Sweden and Norway.

Day 2: July 25, 2023

We did a lot with our first full day in Copenhagen!

First, a Copenhagen Treasure Hunt

When I visit somewhere new I love the experience of getting out on foot and orienting myself somewhere. But self-guided walking tours aren’t always that much fun, especially for children, so it was brilliant to discover Seek and See.

For less than £20 we got a route that introduced us to Skyla and helped her build a new spaceship so that she could return to save her home planet.

A small girl in a pink shirt leans over a stone fountain with clear water, while a boy in an orange shirt stands nearby, both in an open plaza. In the background, there are trees and buildings, with construction scaffolding visible on one side. The sky is partly cloudy.
A street scene featuring a sculpture of a horse next to a tree stump, both made from a natural material that resembles bark. In the background, there are shops and a building with a brown facade. People are walking in the area, and a trash bin is visible nearby. The pavement is decorated with geometric patterns.
A cobblestone square with a statue of a horse and rider at the center, surrounded by buildings with a mix of architectural styles. In the background, a tall spire rises against a blue sky dotted with clouds. People and vehicles are present in the square, contributing to a lively atmosphere.

We started off at the Stork Fountain (Storkespringvandet) and then down to the equestrian statue on Højbro Plads commemorating the city founder Bishop Absalon.

A cityscape featuring a decorative bridge crossing over a body of water, with pedestrians walking on it. In the background, a classic-style building with columns is visible alongside modern traffic, including a blue delivery truck and cars. The sky is partly cloudy, and there are lampposts and street signs adding to the urban atmosphere.
Two children are posing in front of a large historic building with a clock tower. The building features a grand façade with numerous windows and is surrounded by a stone pathway. The children display cheerful expressions, with one girl wearing a white shirt and pink shoes, and a boy in an orange shirt and cap, holding a drink. The sky is partly cloudy, and there are cars and bicycles in the vicinity.
A historic building, the Copenhagen Borsen, with a green copper roof and a tall, spiraled tower topped with a flag. The facade features red bricks and ornate details. In the background, a partially covered structure is under renovation, and the sky is bright with scattered clouds. Traffic lights and a zebra crossing are visible in the foreground.

After finding the Agnete and the Merman Statue in the water by the Højbro bridge, with the Christiansborg Slotskirke in the background we walked along Christiansborg Slotsplads and past the Christiansborg Palace and on to the Børsgade and past the Børsen (this before the dramatic events of 16th April 2024).

A tall, cylindrical tower with a green patina and a white top stands next to a walkway by the water. The tower features round windows and a railing in front of it. In the background, there are colorful buildings with green rooftops and trees along the shoreline, under a partly cloudy blue sky.
A young child in an orange shirt and cap strikes a playful pose in front of a large, abstract sculpture that appears to be made of dark material with a crack running down the center. The background features a cobblestone street, trees, and buildings under a clear blue sky.
Two children, a girl in a colourful sweater and pink shoes, and a boy in an orange shirt and black hat, playfully pose next to a tall sculpture with a circular cut-out, beside a calm waterfront dotted with buildings and trees. A person is partially visible in the foreground, facing away from the camera. The sky is partly cloudy.
A scenic view of a waterfront in a city, featuring a calm body of water reflecting the sky. In the background, diverse architectural buildings with green rooftops and a prominent spire are visible under a partly cloudy sky. A flagpole with a flag stands to the left, and a stone walkway borders the water.
A scenic view of a waterfront with a person walking along a cobblestone path on the left side. To the right, another individual is walking away, near the water. In the background, there are several buildings lining the river, under a partly cloudy blue sky. The water reflects the clouds and surroundings, creating a peaceful atmosphere.

Then across the Knippelsbro bridge, which we got to watch raise for a passing boat before we start to wander along the waterfront through the offices of the Danish Ministry of Foreign Affairs catching sight of some of the street sculptures. The images above are of “The Kiss or East meets West” and “Kyklopen” by Søren Georg Jensen.

A riverside scene shows a large boat with a canopy docked on a cobblestone path. In the foreground, potted plants with pink flowers are placed beside a bench. A traffic sign indicates a 30 zone. The background features buildings and a marina with a tall ship, under a blue sky with fluffy white clouds.
A woman stands on a bridge in a picturesque city setting, with traditional buildings on either side. The sky is partly cloudy, and there are boats moored along the waterway visible in the foreground. The atmosphere is bright and lively.
A child stands beside a large, rusted anchor on a cobblestone pathway by a marina. The background features colorful buildings lining the waterfront, with various boats moored in the water and a blue sky dotted with fluffy clouds. A tall church steeple is visible in the distance.
A woman stands on a sunny waterfront promenade with a child. The woman smiles while the child hugs her from behind. In the background, there are sailboats docked along the water, and several wooden benches line the walkway. A vibrant blue sky with fluffy clouds completes the scene.
A picturesque harbor scene featuring a foreground of a white boat with blue accents, moored at a wooden dock. In the background, colorful historic buildings line the waterfront under a bright blue sky dotted with fluffy white clouds. Several boats are gently anchored in the calm water, surrounded by greenery from nearby trees. A tall clock tower is visible in the distance, adding to the charm of the scene.

Then down, across and along again past the Wilders Kanal to its intersection with the Christianshavns Kanal. We didn’t stop at the Michelin Guide mentioned Restaurant Kanalen but carried on down to the Wilders Plads Marina, from where we could see the spire of the Church of Our Saviour (not somewhere we were aiming for).

Then it was away from the water for a bit and past the headquarters of Flying Tiger on Standgade as we looked to find the magic mirrored passageway in the middle of the Kroyers Plads that brought us back out on the waterfront and the Embassy of Iceland. Eleanor had a hug with the statue outside it.

A scenic view of a waterfront walkway lined with sailboats. The cobblestone path is flanked by buildings on one side and a marina on the other, under a partly cloudy blue sky with lush greenery in the foreground.
A bright and sunny waterfront scene featuring a paved pathway along a canal. On the left, a two-story houseboat is moored, displaying a flag. On the right, a tall, modern building stands next to the water. The sky is filled with fluffy white clouds, casting shadows on the scene. In the background, a few pedestrians stroll along the promenade.
A serene waterway lined with buildings and boats under a blue sky dotted with fluffy white clouds. The scene captures a mix of architecture with a focus on a houseboat in the foreground, while calm waters reflect the surroundings.

Which brought us back to the water and the brilliant architectural feat of the Butterfly Bridge which provides a link across the Christianshavns Kanal and Trangraven. The three spans meet in a star shape and although we didn’t get to see it opening and closing you could get a feel for how clever it is that two spans can be opened independently of each other to allow for water-borne travel to do its thing.

Then Lunch, Nyhavn and the Changing of the Guard (but not in that order)

Just next to the bridge was Broens Street Food where we decided we were going to have lunch.

But before we could enjoy our richly deserved lunch we had managed to complete our walking tour in time to walk over to Nyhavn and then beyond it to the Amalienborg Palace for the Changing of the Guard (we did do a lot on this first day of our holiday). As with most Changing of the Guard experiences there was a lot of waiting around for things to happen but Ezra and Eleanor managed to get themselves front row seats sat on the floor and thoroughly enjoyed the choreography (though their video documentation of things didn’t quite reflect their premium perch!)

A view of a square surrounded by historical buildings under a partly cloudy sky. In the foreground, a lamppost stands next to a stone column, while in the background, a group of people is gathered on the cobblestone pavement. Some buildings are scaffolded, indicating renovations.

So, after that little break from walking around we headed back to Broens Street Food for our first real exposure to the infamously expensive Scandinavian costs of everything. Except that what we found were prices that weren’t really too different to what you’d expect to pay along the South Bank or some other tourist trap in London. Still, after all that walking we at least knew that we deserved it!

This lunchtime was also the first occasion on which Eleanor demonstrated her incredible talent for falling asleep anywhere and under any circumstances while I was queuing for our lunch!

After lunch we walked back over to Nyhavn (yes, there was a lot of back and forth today) which was absolutely heaving with people but we had a nice ice cream while we took stock of what to do with the rest of the day.

A scenic view of a waterfront with colorful buildings lining a canal. Several boats, including a white motorboat and a wooden vessel, are docked along the water. Two people sit on the motorboat, enjoying the surroundings. In the foreground, there are benches along the stone promenade, and the sky is partly cloudy.
A woman and a young girl smile together while standing by a canal. The background features colorful, historic buildings lining the waterfront, with boats docked along the pier. The sky is bright with fluffy white clouds, and people can be seen enjoying time at outdoor tables. The woman wears sunglasses and a light-colored jacket, while the girl holds onto her.
A sunny outdoor scene at an ice cream shop. A woman in a grey jacket holds a phone and a hat. Nearby, a young boy with short hair is enjoying a large swirl of soft-serve ice cream. Another girl with curly hair and a colourful shirt is happily eating an ice cream cone, looking up. In the background, a man in a straw hat and others are gathered, with a bicycle and some flags visible in the scene. The table is made of wood, and there's a hint of greenery nearby.

To the Little Mermaid

Well rested and restored by the magic of ice cream (and a great little play in the playground (in Danish: Legeplads) a street or two away from the hustle and bustle of Nyhavn) we were ready to do some more walking along the waterfront and down to visit the statue of Hans Christian Andersen’s Little Mermaid in the Langelinieparken. I think Ezra was more impressed by the massive Gefion fountain (Gefionspringvandet) than the statue but it’s definitely one of those ‘must-see’ things to do in Copenhagen.

A bronze statue of a mermaid sitting on a large rock in the water, surrounded by smaller stones. The sky is blue with scattered clouds, and in the background, a city skyline is visible along the shore. The scene captures a calm and tranquil atmosphere.
A young boy with a surprised expression stands in front of a large fountain, which features a sculpture of horses and riders. The fountain is surrounded by water, and people are enjoying the park area in the background. The sky is blue with some fluffy white clouds, and there are trees along the pathway. The boy is wearing a gray and black hoodie and a cap.

After all that walking we decided to jump on the water bus to travel back from the Langelinieparken and back into Copenhagen admiring the waterside architecture and marvelling at the approach to ticketing public transport. We got off at the Danish Architecture Center, Blox and the kids had fun playing on its giant outdoor playground.

The Bastard Cafe

By now it was about 5pm and thoughts were turning to tea and we knew where we were headed for that – to Copenhagen’s world famous board game cafe, The Bastard Cafe. Here in Croydon we have the excellent Ludoquist but it really isn’t a patch on this wonderfully space boasting almost 6000 games.

Like the amateurs we are we hadn’t booked ahead but fortunately were able to slide onto an empty table. With small children who’d already had quite a packed day we weren’t in the market to broaden our gaming horizons and played some nice, simple games that they could enjoy while we ate our dinner. Christine and Eleanor did head back to the hotel and left Ezra and I to play for a little longer.

But after one busy day we were going to be having another one the next day so we were back to our hotel before 8pm. And apart from a little sortie to Netto (remember them!?) we were tucked up for a good night’s sleep ahead of our second day in Copenhagen.

About Benjamin Welby

I’m Benjamin Welby. I live in Croydon with my wife and two children. I church at Croydon Vineyard. We’ve had season tickets for Bradford City since 2007. I’ve got degrees in History, Post-War Recovery and Public Administration and have spent the last 15+ years working at the intersection of digital transformation and good governance. I began my career in local government, went on to help launch GOV.UK and most recently worked on defining global standards for digital government at the OECD. I'm currently currently co-authoring a book integrating biblical values with civic life, encouraging Christians to adopt a hope-filled, faith-inspired perspective on democracy and how we are governed. I’m interested in too many things: being a good husband and father, following Jesus, the theology of governing well, a warm welcome for refugees and asylum seekers, that ‘digital’ leads to fair, inclusive and equitable transformation, exploring the world, League Two football, Pantomime, various England sports teams and Team GB…